The metropolis’s fabled previous colours his time there, too.
“Berlin is formerly magnificent, formerly destroyed, presently rebuilt,” Mr. Scully mentioned. “It’s at a great moment.”
History isn’t far-off in Berlin. In the 1920s, the Weimar period fostered lasting achievements throughout disciplines.
It was a crucible for the buildings and merchandise of the Bauhaus; the operas of Bertolt Brecht and Kurt Weill; the work of Ernst Ludwig Kirchner and George Grosz; and the movies of Fritz Lang. Christopher Isherwood’s 1939 novel “Goodbye to Berlin,” which turned the idea for the musical and film “Cabaret,” helped burnish the mythology.
“It was such a vibrant cultural place in the 1920s,” mentioned Monika Sprüth, the Cologne-based supplier who co-owns the gallery Sprüth Magers and operates a department in Berlin. “The early days of modernism were lived there, and it still retains that atmosphere.”
The cultural flowering was quick lived, focused by the Nazis as “degenerate art” as a part of the horrors main as much as World War II. Then massive components of town had been destroyed through the warfare. And the Cold War gave town its most well-known single characteristic: the Berlin Wall, which stood from 1961 to 1989.
Mr. Biesenbach was there simply after the wall fell, an occasion that precipitated a decade of inventive manufacturing maybe not rivaling that of the 1920s, however vital nonetheless.
“The ’90s were a legendary time,” Mr. Biesenbach mentioned. “It was a time when East Berlin seemed abandoned, and it was an empty canvas for artists. That’s very seductive. And at that time, New York rents were getting expensive.”
In the early 1990s, Mr. Biesenbach co-founded the humanities group Kunst-Werke Institute for Contemporary Art (KW), which later spawned the Berlin Biennale; each are nonetheless going robust. Part of their success was positioning Berlin as a world artist middle, not only a German one.
“When we started KW, I made it an institutional policy to speak English,” Mr. Biesenbach mentioned. “Some people thought I was crazy. It was a bit early for that. But the last 20 years have proved the strategy right.”
The lineup of artists from all over the world who lived or stayed in Berlin for lengthy stretches, and who had been affiliated with Kunst-Werke and the Biennale within the 1990s, is a formidable one: Rirkrit Tiravanija, Gabriel Orozco, Olafur Eliasson, Ugo Rondinone, Douglas Gordon, Andrea Zittel and lots of others.
The robust go well with of labor produced on the time was its “political relevance,” Mr. Biesenbach mentioned. “We were in the midst of history happening, and that made us aware.”
Networking and socializing had been central components of these heady days — and loads of artists are replicating that have proper now. But even for artistic varieties, wants change with age.
Mr. Ai, 60, mentioned he appreciated Berlin exactly as a result of he may very well be a fish out of water.
His most prized routine doesn’t encompass strolls within the Tiergarten and hoisting pilsners with fellow artists, however taking his son to high school day-after-day.
“I don’t speak the German language,” Mr. Ai mentioned. “I don’t go to any art shows or community gatherings. I don’t enjoy German food much and don’t care for the beer culture. All of this isn’t a complaint, but rather, a preference.”
Perhaps one in every of Berlin’s greatest lures is one thing shared by different massive cities: its means to offer something, as much as and together with indifference.
Mr. Ai added, “Solitude is a very important condition for artists. I have my studio in Berlin because I feel comfortable being alone.”